The allure of sport climbing has skyrocketed over the past two decades, attracting nearly 25 million practitioners from various countries. In particular, it is a popular choice for younger generations – 39% under 18 – and can be enjoyed in natural outdoor settings or metropolitan indoor environments. Sport climbing originated in 1985 at Bardonecchia near Turin, Italy; however, one year later Vaulx-en-Velin near Lyon became home to the first artificial rock wall competition event ever held.
Overview Of The Rules
The Olympic Games showcase sport climbing in all its glory – with three distinct formats: bouldering, speed and lead. Bouldering tests athletes’ strength and technique as they ascend a 4.5m wall without ropes in quick succession. At the same time, rate requires precision and explosivity to see who can climb a 15-meter high five-degree inclined wall faster than their opponents – men must finish within six seconds, women seven! It is always such an awe-inspiring sight to witness!
In the lead event, participants climb a wall of up to 15 meters without seeing their route. As they progress through the six minutes of competition, athletes face increasingly complex and demanding challenges that test their physical and mental strength.
Athletes in Tokyo competed in all three disciplines, with the lowest total score winning the first Olympic gold medal. In Paris 2024, there will be two competitions – a combined bouldering and lead event that determines who is crowned champion of sport climbing and an individual speed event where athletes can vie for victory.
When sport climbing debuted at the Buenos Aires Youth Olympic Games in 2018, it quickly captivated viewers with its thrilling nature and suspenseful spectacle. This newfound success prompted an invitation to be featured as part of an all-new program for the Tokyo 2020 Olympics – a monumental moment met with great enthusiasm from sports fans worldwide!
Incorporating three distinct disciplines of lead climbing, bouldering and speed climbing with a single set of medals for each gender has encountered substantial criticism from the global mountaineering community.
Lynn Hill, a climber extraordinaire, likened the inclusion of speed climbing to “making a middle-distance runner compete in the sprint.” Adam Ondra echoed this sentiment when he shared that anything would be preferable to blending these two events. The Czech athlete eventually secured his spot as an Olympic finalist.
Although some climbers are proficient in lead climbing and bouldering, speed climbing is generally seen as a separate field of practice. According to climber Shauna Coxsey, “No one has managed to master all three categories of rock climbing – leading, bouldering and speed.” This demonstrates the complexity of transitioning between these disciplines.
With its visual appeal, excitement and creativity, sport climbing is becoming popular among youngsters. It can be experienced in urban and natural settings – making it even more versatile! In light of this growth, Sport Climbing will now be included as one of the four sports at the Paris 2024 Olympic Games alongside Breaking, Surfing and Skateboarding. Furthermore, Los Angeles 2028 has also declared that they will include the sport of Climbing in their Olympics program.
Climbing Events in the 2024 Olympic Games
To ensure you get all of the action, athletes can look forward to competing in two separate Olympic events from August 5th – 9th: Bouldering and lead combined (women’s / men’s) and speed (women’s/men’s). So mark your calendar for an exceptional athletic experience!
For the Paris 2024 Olympic Games, 68 quota spots have been made available – 28 for speed climbing and 40 for both boulder and lead combined. This is a 70% increase in the roster size at Tokyo 2020 (40). Each National Olympic Committee has the right to enter up to four climbers, two per gender, in dual formats.
The qualifications for the 2024 Olympic Games will start at the 2023 IFSC Climbing World Championships, hosted in Bern, Switzerland, from August 1 to 12th. At this event, ten spots will be allotted based on performance: three slots are open to those who achieve the highest scores across both boulder and lead disciplines. At the same time, two additional places are available for each gender’s speed climbing champion and runner-up, respectively.
The remainder of the quota will be divided among twenty eligible climbers for the boulder-and-lead combined and ten for speed at each corresponding continental qualification tournament (Africa, Americas, Asia, Europe, Oceania) between September 2023 and December 2023. In addition to this period, three Olympic Qualifier Series events held from March 2024 through June 2024 shall also garner specific quotas.
As the event’s host country, France is allocated one entry spot per gender for each category. Four additional quota spots (two male and two female) are allotted to National Olympic Committees under the Universality rule in every discipline.
The Venue in 2024
Le Bourget Climbing Venue is an outdoor rock climbing venue in Le Bourget, France. The platform has many challenges for climbers, from accessible routes suitable for beginners to more demanding ones. The rock formations are set in a unique landscape, making the climbing view breathtaking. With the impressive peaks and towers providing stunning backdrops, climbers will find plenty of challenges and enjoyment at this special place.
The International Federation of Sport Climbing (IFSC) is the international governing body for competitive climbing. Established in 2007, IFSC represents nearly 200 national organisations worldwide, and its mission is to promote and develop the sport of climbing internationally. It organises competitions worldwide and provides rules and regulations for climbing events. Furthermore, it ensures that all competitors are fair and promotes proper sportsmanship. The IFSC works closely with athletes, coaches, event organisers, and other stakeholders to ensure a safe and enjoyable experience for all climbers.
Q: When will the 2024 Olympics take place?
A: The 2024 Olympic Games will occur from July 26 to August 11, 2024.
Q: Which venues will host climbing events?
A: Climbing events for the 2024 Olympics will be held at Le Bourget Climbing Venue located near Paris, France.
Q: What is the format of climbing competitions during the Olympics?
A: During the 2024 Olympic Games, climbers will compete in three disciplines – Speed Climbing, Lead Climbing and Bouldering. Points are awarded based on their performance, and the climber with the most points is declared the winner.
Q: Who sets rules and regulations related to international competition climbing?
A: The International Federation of Sport Climbing (IFSC) is responsible for setting rules and regulations related to international competition climbing. They also support organising events and ensure fairness within sport climbing competitions.