Get ready for a thrilling ascent as sport climbing takes on a new format at the Paris 2024 Olympics! Unlike its debut in Tokyo 2020 with a combined event, Paris 2024 is set to elevate the excitement with two separate events for each gender: Boulder & Lead Combined and Speed Climbing.
So, strap in and prepare to scale new heights as we delve into the details of this revamped Olympic discipline.
The Previous Format at Tokyo 2020
Sport climbing made its Olympic debut at the Tokyo 2020 Summer Games. However, the format was different from what we will see in Paris 2024.
In Tokyo, there was only one event per gender, which was a combined competition of three disciplines: bouldering, lead climbing, and speed climbing. Athletes had to excel across all three to have a shot at winning the medal.
In this unique format, athletes faced the daunting task of mastering three very different climbing styles. Bouldering involves short, complex routes, while lead climbing focuses on endurance and height, and speed climbing is a race against the clock.
The combined format meant that climbers had to be versatile and well-rounded.
This new Olympic sport saw some remarkable performances. Slovenia’s Janja Garnbret and Spain’s Alberto Gines Lopez etched their names into the history books by becoming the first-ever sport climbing champions in Olympic history.
Garnbret dominated the women’s event, showcasing her prowess in all three disciplines, while Lopez’s consistent performance across the board earned him the top spot in the men’s event.
Their victories were not just personal achievements, but landmark moments in the history of sport climbing.
The New Format at Paris 2024
In a significant change from Tokyo 2020, the Paris 2024 Olympics will feature two separate events in sport climbing for each gender: Boulder & Lead Combined and Speed Climbing.
This alteration in format allows athletes to specialize in their preferred disciplines, bringing a new level of excitement and competition to the sport.
The Boulder & Lead Combined event merges two similar climbing styles. Boulder involves tackling short, complex routes without a rope, while Lead climbing requires athletes to climb as high as possible on a wall of over 15 meters within a given time, using safety ropes. Athletes’ performances in both disciplines are combined to determine their overall score.
Speed Climbing, on the other hand, is a race against the clock on a standardized route. Two climbers compete on identical routes, and the fastest one to the top wins.
This discipline is about explosive power and blistering speed, offering a thrilling spectacle for spectators.
Rankings in the Boulder & Lead Combined event are determined by multiplying the placement points an athlete gets in each discipline.
The athlete with the lowest score wins, reflecting that lower placement points (1st place, 2nd place, etc.) are better. In Speed Climbing, rankings are purely determined by time – the faster climber wins.
This new format in Paris 2024 promises to bring out the best in the climbers, showcasing their strength, agility, and technique like never before. As athletes prepare for these challenges, spectators worldwide can look forward to some gripping action on the vertical stage.
Top Athletes to Watch
As we look forward to the Paris 2024 Olympics, several exceptional athletes have demonstrated remarkable skills in their respective disciplines. Here is a short list of top climbers to keep an eye on:
- Veddriq Leonardo: An emerging talent from Indonesia, Leonardo has shown strong prowess in Speed Climbing, boasting impressive times on the standard course.
- Katibin Kiromal: Another Indonesian climber, Kiromal, is known for his strength and agility in Bouldering, making him a strong contender in the Boulder & Lead Combined event.
- Aleksandra Miroslaw: The Polish climber made a name for herself as a speed specialist, having won multiple World Cup titles in the discipline. She will be one to watch in the Speed Climbing event.
- Aleksandra Kalucka: Another star from Poland, Kalucka shines in Lead Climbing with her endurance and technique. She could be a fierce competitor in the Boulder & Lead Combined event.
- Yannick Flohé: The German climber has consistently excelled in both Bouldering and Lead Climbing, making him a strong prospect for the Boulder & Lead Combined event.
- Mejdi Schalck: A young talent from France, Schalck has shown great potential in Speed Climbing, adding to the excitement of the discipline at his home Olympics.
A special mention goes to Janja Garnbret. After securing the first Olympic gold in sport climbing history at Tokyo 2020, the Slovenian superstar will aim for a second gold in Paris. Known for her exceptional versatility, Garnbret has the potential to excel in both the Boulder & Lead Combined and Speed Climbing events.
These athletes represent just a snapshot of the compelling talent pool in sport climbing. As they prepare to take on the vertical challenge in Paris, we can expect high-octane performances and breathtaking moments of athletic prowess.
Promising Climbers in 2022
The year 2022 was a standout one for sport climbing, with numerous climbers performing exceptionally on the world stage. Two athletes who particularly shone were Nonaka Miho from Japan and Seo Chaehyun from South Korea.
Nonaka Miho had an impressive run in 2022. She demonstrated consistent strength and agility throughout the season, securing second place in the IFSC Climbing World Cup1. Her performances have shown that she is a formidable competitor in the Boulder & Lead Combined event.
With her ongoing training and dedication, it’s expected that she will bring a high level of competition to Paris 2024.
Seo Chaehyun, at just 19 years old, has already made a name for herself in the climbing world. In 2022, she competed against some of the most prominent climbers and continued to seek more silverware at the ISFC World Cup2. Seo’s dynamic climbing style and determination have seen her rise swiftly through the ranks. As one of the youngest competitors, her potential impact on the Paris 2024 Olympics could be significant, especially in the Speed Climbing event.
Both these athletes have shown great promise, and their performances in 2022 have set them up as ones to watch. Their potential impact on the Paris 2024 Olympics could be substantial, contributing to the growth and excitement of the sport on the Olympic stage.
Frequently Asked Questions
Q1: What is the format for sport climbing in Paris 2024?
A: The Paris 2024 Olympics will showcase an improved format for sport climbing, which separates Speed Climbing from the Boulder & Lead Combined event. The format will include a qualification round and races between two opponents in Speed Climbing. Victorious athletes will progress through a bracket to the finals12.
Q2: What is the combined climbing format?
A: The combined climbing format was used in Tokyo 2020 where all three disciplines – Speed, Boulder, and Lead were clubbed into one event. However, for Paris 2024, this has been changed. Speed Climbing will now be its own event, separate from the Boulder & Lead Combined event3.
Q3: What are the 5 new sports for 2024 Olympics?
A: As of the latest updates, the five new sports for the 2024 Paris Olympics have not been officially announced yet. Please check the official Olympics website for the most recent information.
Q4: How do you qualify for Olympics climbing 2024?
A: Each National Olympic Committee (NOC) is entitled to enter a maximum of four climbers (two per gender) in two separate formats. The qualification period commences at the 2023 IFSC Climbing World Cup4.
Q5: What is the scoring system for the Paris 2024 Olympics climbing event?
Q6: What is the difference between bouldering, speed and lead climbing?
A: In bouldering, athletes climb 4.5 m high walls without ropes, in a limited time. Speed climbing involves athletes racing against each other on a standard course. Lead climbing tests an athlete’s endurance as they try to climb as high as possible on a wall within a given time7.